Climb the deep inside corner and crack to the overhang. Use the chockstone to surmount the overhang.I thought Swarling Mayer's description was interesting. "Where the crack runs through the overhang it appears possible to hang by one's head. To avoid this possibility, use and incredibly dirty chockstone." Did anyone actually try to stick their head in there for some reason?

The Hangman

Hangman Towers Offwidth

The Hangman's Face

Climb the southeast side of the Hangman Tower avoiding the offwidth crack. The climb starts from a block.I think this is the same as the southeast side route that's vaguely described in Swarling/Mayer (unnamed #2). The southeast side of the tower could include the face on either side of the Hangman Tower Offwidth route. The right side looks better to me. Swartling/Mayer doesn't mention the crack, so I assume the offwidth crack is off.

Belay is within a bowl at the start of the crack, be cautious; there is loose rock and the sharp corners of the tower blocks. The crack starts out about a foot wide with a flake to the left with a crack in it that takes gear well. Moving up the crack, it gets smaller above the flake and then larger once again. When you are above the flake, you should be able to use a #3 BD cam and some hexes to protect. The crack constricts at the top, be careful not to get stuck here because it is easy to wedge your chest between the blocks. Mantle over the top and there is a tree you can use as a quick anchor.

Two towers of purple quartzite meet up at the crack between them. Walking up there used to be a large cobble that was lodged above the space to belay, but it has fallen.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2. Hangman Tower