Stag Party

Ezra The Catamite

Missing Vicki & Kirsten

[Redacted]

Black Peeler

Orangutan Afternoon

The Serpent

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route

Between Iraq and a Hard Place

Whoops

Black Mamba

Birthday Route

Golden Eye

This was the first route on the steep, southeast face of the

Black Peeler

. No bolts were placed on the first ascent; in fact, this route stayed bolt-free until the early 1980's. Although seldom done compared to the

Peeler Direct

, this natural line, which follows the principal weakness of the face, offers some great climbing. This route and especially the

Peeler Direct

became a rite of passage for all early aspiring aid climbers in the Wasatch...training ground for Yosemite.

P1

: Climb a short, clean flake (5.10 or C1) to a large ramp. Hand traverse left and follow cracks to a hanging belay underneath a long narrow roof...great pitch. (You can also belay at the hand traverse, 2 pins).

P2

: Traverse right underneath the roof...the crack is wide and thin (C2/3 or 5.10+) to a belay on a sloping ledge at 2 bolts.

P3

: Shuffle right to a thin aid crack (don't fall here) and ascend this beauty to another ramp. Belay at its end (C1 or C2).

P4

: Climb a short groove to a steep hand/fist crack. Jam or aid this to the top. (5.7 C2 or 5.10).

Rap bolts will be seen to the east. Two ropes are needed (160').

Double hand cracks at the start, but you'll use only one of them. Do you jam straight through or punch the lie back to its end? After the hands portion mosey on up a lower angle section to a testy finger crack section with sub par rock. Step right, and follow easy rock to the finishing corner.

Finish option B is to step across the chimney, and belay at Ace-Drizzle's 1st pitch anchor.

P1:

Traverse to a thin seam. Climb straight up to

Black Peeler

. Traverse right on

Black Peeler

to belay at a two-bolt station.

P2:

Traverse left and up a wide crack/flake (5.11a R). Belay at a two-bolt station.

This is a variation pitch to the

Black Peeler

.  Downclimb the ramp from the

Peeler Direct

first pitch belay.  Swing out the roof via bolts, then stretch for a placement.  Climb the corner up to another ramp, then traverse to the second pitch anchor of the

Peeler Direct

.

Make sure to protect the second

when you leave the crack and free climb to the 2nd pitch anchor.  Fun pitch, and a great, harder alternative to the

Peeler Direct

splitter.

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, .12c, 4 pitches.  First Ascent:  Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna, June, 2007

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route was named in honor of our good friends Brian Postlethwait and Andre Callari, who were killed while climbing in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska in May, 2007.  Brian and Andre were two of the most badass climbers, skiers/snowboarders, pilots, adventurers, husbands, brothers, sons and friends that ever lived, and this is part of our tribute to the amazing people that they were.

Pitch one:  Climb the first pitch of Orangutan Afternoon.  Climb the large right facing corner until it ends, and then step across to a ledge with chains.  5.10. ~ 100 feet

Pitch two:  Traverse left from the belay and pull around a small roof to gain a left facing corner.  It is possible to escape right after just a few feet of the corner, but for better quality climbing continue up the corner to an under cling flake and the short bouldery crux of the pitch.  5.10c. ~ 80 feet

Pitch three:  The money pitch.  Climb the striking, overhanging, flake/crack up the orange and black streaked wall.  This pitch starts hard and keeps coming at you until the end.  5.12c. ~ 80 feet

Pitch four:  Move the belay to the base of the overhanging finger crack.  Lieback, jam, thrutch, and curse your way up the steep tips crack.  At the roof, go left.  A #4 Camalot is nice here.  Belay anchors are up and to the right on a ramp.  5.11c. ~50 feet.  (Note:  we believe that this pitch has been aid climbed before, but never freed.  The base of it is accessible from the top of the Peeler Direct Route)

Alternative to Pitch Four:  Scramble up the low angled ramp from the base of the .11c variation and climb a very high quality 5.8 hand crack to the anchors.

Descend with one 70 meter rope.  Skip the rappel anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch and go all the way to the top of the first pitch.  A 60 meter rope is workable with some trickery.

Climbs R to L across a very dirty sw facing slab,  save your time and dont bother. Otherwise bring a wire brush etc. Would be awesome if cleaned up properly! Rap from the tree tat ( if lowering straightdown a 70 will require 3m of downclimbing a dirty steep crack! probably better to angle R when facing in to reach the start of the route proper, then go R to a rap chain)

A fun alternative to the first pitch of black peeler. Head up the thin layback but go left almost immediately towards a jug and thin seam with good feet. Pull a less than obvious bouldery crux through another thin crack and head straight up to the anchors over a funky bulge.

A novel free climbing link up on the main peeler face! No new pitches climbed or freed, but the aid descriptions of the two climbs do not make a multipitch free climb obvious. A working name given for simple reference.

Pitch One: Black Peeler P1, 5.10-

A thin layback up a right arching flake to a slabby corner. Hand traverse left to a bolted anchor.

Pitch Two: Black Peeler P2, 5.10+

Continue left off the belay into a huge roof traverse right. The initial climbing is awkward but ends with thoughtful fun moves. Traverse to an anchor past the flake. Save the 000 for gaining the foot ramp

Pitch Three: The Serpent P2, 5.11- PG-13

Head back left and pull into the hanging flake. Initial moves transitioning from underclings to the layback give the PG-13. The rest of the flake is steep, pumpy, and reasonably solid. A 2'x8' ear feature was trundled recently taking the grade up slightly. Finish at an anchor with chains

2 raps with a 70m, or 3 with a 60m

This route is on the Southeast face of the Black Peeler to the right of Peeler Direct.  It climbs the righthand prow of the Peeler face.  To reach, climb Orangutan Afternoon most of the way then stem right across a chimney and traverse right to a small ledge with bolt anchors and belay.  For Goldeneye, climb up and left from there into a short left facing corner.  Protect with a few small to medium cams.  The rest of the pitch is bolt protected.  Move left across a slab and around to the left side of the prow.  Climb up from there following bolts to chain anchors at the top.  Really good climbing.

Description

Protection

Routes in Peeler Face