The infamous narcos eliminate problem. This is a slight deviation from the rumored original beta but has become the popular version. Start on the lowest, middle shelf. RH to the undercling crimp, LH to the next crimp, place the right heel hook, RH onto the cop Killa shelf, bump into the crimp, LH to the cop Killa ball jug, grab the lip and top it. Surprisingly good for being contrived and an eliminate. Holds shown in photo.

(Not) Narcos

Cop Killa

Hairpin Roof

Hairpin Roof Right

Contorted Lip Traverse

The Widowmaker

Syrup Spilla

Archaeopteryx

Contorted

Project

Cactus Eater

Begin on Cop Killa (or Contorted, whatever your fancy), and climb the majority of Cop Killa. However, instead of making the long lock off of Hairpin Roof Right to finish CK, continue rightward and make a hard move to the large flake in the middle of Widowmaker (supporting boulder is off). Either continue to finish on Widowmaker, or climb down to the start of Syrup Spilla and finish on that. The link of the full roof from left to right.

begins on two jugs on the left side of the roof. campus out to a slope, and make some moves to link into Hairpin Roof Right. somewhat contrived, as the jug lip on Hairpin Roof is in reach. exiting on Hairpin Roof is somewhere between v4 and v6.

same start as hairpin roof right, but rather than lunging out right, match the seam (two crimps and a slopey rail--all with in the same vicinity), and make some moves to top out left.  

  VAR: eliminate the rail/crescent hold before the slopey rail mentioned above. between v8 and v10 somewhere.

scary start on a left gaston, right jug, and a high heel. make a dicey move to a left hand crimp, and right heel hand match to get to a good rail. make another move to a left hand crimp, and set up for a huge lunge to a good edge.  

  VAR: eliminate the good rail/crescent hold. not sure about the grade

Start as for Contorted, on the block below the boulder. Make a cool press into the roof with your left hand, then reach way out right to a good incut or to the jug at the lip. Bring your left hand to a pinch at the lip, then heelhook the lip. From here, traverse the lip of the boulder on good slopers and ledges, all the way to the sweet spot for topping out.

Start on juggy shelf. Make a move out to a good gaston on a shelf, and match. the next move goes to a crimp, and then to the crux at the lip. campus the first two moves to add some more difficulty.

Starting on the same jug shelf as Widowmaker, climb right through some polished crimps, a powerful cut and a thin topout.  

  To me, this is one of the most frightening lowballs imaginable. The landing consists of a number of pointy & loose boulders on a very steep slope leading to a deep pit, also filled with and surrounded by rocks. Don't fall– if you feel like you are going to blow off of the first crimp with the heel-toe cam in place, just lower yourself onto the pads.

This is a dyno on the south overhang. Start with your hands on or near the big right facing incut jug (the starting hold for the v1). Dyno up and a little left to the flat ledge, then top out. Two hands is the way to go. 

  This one is more about technique and precision than height.

When you're facing the roof there is a smaller boulder supporting the left side.  This problem starts on that smaller boulder, you tuck yourself up into the roof and there is an underhand right just left of where the two boulders meet.  From there you have to sort of contort yourself backward use the left hand sloper on the roof and arch backward for the right hand hold, you can match, bump the right to the good jug then you have to commit with a left heal hook in a very sharp hold and dead point  to top off from there.

This is the juggy overhang on the southside of the boulder. Start with a big right facing jug. Bump to a flat hold, then again to the juggy lip. Move up and left to two more big ledges to topout. Don't blow the topout, or you might be a cactus eater. 

  There is a more difficult lower start that goes at about v4/5. 

*I know this has been climbed for a long time, if it has a name I will gladly change it, but thought the problem should be listed here.**

This roof has some tough problems on it but the approach is one of the quickest on Lemmon, well worth checking out even if you can't pull off some of the harder moves.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roof